This is an original John Ellis Crystal Clear stainless steel water distiller for making deuterium depleted water, the Living Water Machine (LWM). The Living Water Machine is the Water Wizard 710 with an added water filter with an air vent for the distillate tube (secondary condenser and filter with activated carbon), and a water agitator on the top cooling unit/fan.
The Water Wizard 710 and the Living Water Machine purify and distill water with a similar process of a moonshine still. They heat and cool the water and condense it to be collected in a container. It heats and cools the water not once, but 100's of times per gallon.
This one is a combination of the base for Water Wizard 710 which I used 1 time to verify it worked, and the top for the Living Water Machine which has the added water agitator, and the added secondary condenser with an air vent and filter. I took the cover off the heating unit on the base before I used it to verify it had not been previously used.
This item is no longer available, but it's still pretty cool!
- 1 (used 1 time) Water Wizard 710 base which consists of the stainless steel pot with the condensation coil, all fittings (assembled); the complete heater module (note: 2 heaters); the water faucet aerator/diversion valve with the hose that attaches to the water inlet and temperature control valve (assembled); the overflow/drain fittings and hose (assembled).
- 1 slightly used Living Water Machine top which has the electric cooling fan and an added water agitator. Confirmed that it works.
- 1 Secondary condenser and filter with the distillate tube attached from the Living Water Machine. Attaches to the exit tube for the distilled water at the bottom end of the coil on the base. Note: one of the acorn nuts on the face plate has a little rust on the surface from storage and some of the chrome plating on one of the compression fitting nuts is peeling. I put some mineral oil on it to stop it.
- 1 copy of the instructions and parts diagram.
- 1 red cleaning cap that fits over the end of the exit tube.
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- 1 spare red cleaning cap that goes in the hole on top of the boiler.
- 2 brass faucet adapter fittings for the faucet aerator/diversion valve (for different threads on your sink faucet). One of them is already on the aerator/diversion valve now.
- 2 rubber washers for the faucet adapter fittings.
- 1 bag of High Temperature Glass Beads (for hard water)
I saw one of these sell on eBay for $1400.00 that was used and the top fan didn't work. I saw one recently for $1700 that was in deteriorated condition and was not operable. The modern day machines retail for $2800.00
For comparison, here is what the inside of the heating module looks like on my used WW710 base, after using it and cleaning it. The heater covers still needed a good soaking to get the white calcium deposits off.
When adding glass beads make sure the heating module will sit over them unrestricted when clipping the heating unit to the boiler compartment. Note: be sure to line up the red marks on both parts and the slit/vent in the gasket must also be on the top near the red marks. You will need to be able to take the heating module apart for cleaning* of the boiler compartment. Don't worry about exact placement of the clips, but you can take a picture of them before removing them for reference. Two are placed at 5:00 and 7:00 on the bottom, two at 3:00 and 9:00 on the sides, and one on top just to the right of 12:00.
* To clean I add about a cup of vinegar to the water in the base, fill it with fresh water almost to the top and leave it overnight. You will need to coil the drain tubing and hang it on one of the handles or the water input valve so the end of the tube is above the water level. I set the top/fan back on so the agitator gets cleaned also. If the calcium deposits don't come completely off the heater covers I set the heating module with the heater covers down into a ceramic cereal bowl (up to the rubber seal) in a stronger vinegar/water solution.Save the vinegar/water solution for cleaning use again, to polish the whole unit, and to deodorize your sink drains and help get rid of hard water deposits and soap scum out of places such as in your bathroom sink, etc.
To collect the purified water I use a vintage 1 gallon wine jug made by Ball, and 2 quart and a 1 gallon glass pickle jars. Don't use plastic to collect the hot water. Chemicals will leach into your water.
Usage notes:
4/27/2019
Tonight I am again doing 3 gallons, with the used base that I will be keeping, and the Living Water Machine top, secondary condenser and distillate tube, and the faucet aerator/diverter that will be included for sale with the once used base/heating unit.
Here it is in action in a short video:
In the video I mistakenly said it takes 2 hours to fill the gallon jug. It takes 2 hours to fill one of the 2 quart pickle jars. So it takes 4 hours to fill the gallon jug. (1 hr per qt approximately)
Since 3/30/2019 I have been using the used base/distiller, the top/fan, the faucet valve and the Secondary condenser and filter with the distillate tube 1 day per week to make 3 to 4 gallons of purified water for my own use.
I purified approximately 4 gallons of water on (3/30/2019) in about 7.5 hours with the used base. Since I did not use a fan/cooler top I ran a steady stream of fresh water from the faucet. So basically what I was making was 'flash boiled' purified water. I didn't have another faucet aerator/diversion valve other than the new one with the other unit so I took the end off my sink spray hose and used a Velcro strap to secure it on to the water inlet and temperature control valve, turned up. Normally you would set your water inlet and temperature control valve to just replace the water that is being expelled from the distillate tube, or a little more as I did if needed for extra cooling. The water level should never fall below the drain tube fitting level to maintain the proper water level inside the boiler. The instructions must be read and explain it.
If interested in this unit you can leave me a message below with your contact details. I will ship, USPS Priority mail, insured.
The Living Water Machine with the once used Water Wizard 710 base is now found on eBay (Sold)
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This is an original John Ellis Crystal Clear stainless steel water distiller for making deuterium depleted water, the Living Water Machine (LWM). The Living Water Machine is the Water Wizard 710 with an added water filter with an air vent for the distillate tube (secondary condenser and filter with activated carbon), and a water agitator on the top cooling unit/fan.
5/4/19 The Living Water Machine with the once used Water Wizard 710 base [was sold]
They are currently on eBay (obsolete-2017)
One was sold, shipped in two boxes, one box with the top lost in the mail. The new base was finally returned.
The Water Wizard 710 and the Living Water Machine purify and distill water with a similar process of a moonshine still. They heat and cool the water and condense it to be collected in a container. It heats and cools the water not once, but 100's of times per gallon.
I originally had two complete machines that were originally purchased in 1993 by the original owner. I still have the base of the Living Water Machine which I just used for the first time (without the top) recently after replacing the plug end on the power cord. It had previously been used a couple times.
This one is a combination of the base for Water Wizard 710 which was not used, and the top for the Living Water Machine which has the added water agitator, and the added secondary condenser with an air vent and filter. The base is unused. I took the cover off the heating unit to verify it had not been used.
What you see is what is included.
- 1 unused Water Wizard 710 base which consists of the stainless steel pot with the condensation coil, all fittings (assembled); the complete heater module (note: 2 heaters); the water faucet aerator/diversion valve with the hose that attaches to the water inlet and temperature control valve (assembled); the overflow/drain fittings and hose (assembled).
- 1 slightly used Living Water Machine top which has the electric cooling fan and an added water agitator. Confirmed that it works.
- 1 Secondary condenser and filter with the distillate tube attached from the Living Water Machine. Attaches to the exit tube for the distilled water at the bottom end of the coil on the base. Note: one of the acorn nuts on the face plate has a little rust on the surface from storage. I put some mineral oil on it to stop it.
- 1 copy of the instructions and parts diagram.
- 1 red cleaning cap that fits over the end of the exit tube.
-
- 1 spare red cleaning cap that goes in the hole on top of the boiler.
- 2 brass faucet adapter fittings for the faucet aerator/diversion valve (for different threads on your sink faucet)
- 2 rubber washers for the faucet adapter fittings.
- 1 bag of High Temperature Glass Beads (for hard water)
I saw one of these sell on eBay for $1400.00 that was used and the top fan didn't work. I saw one recently for $1700 that looked like it was dug up out of the ground after several years, parts broken and everything in deteriorated condition. The modern day machines retail for $2800.00
For comparison, here is what the inside of the heating module looks like on my used base, after using it and cleaning it.
When adding glass beads make sure the heating module will sit over them unrestricted when clipping the heating unit to the boiler compartment. Note: be sure to line up the red marks on both parts and the slit/vent in the gasket must also be on the top near the red marks. You will need to be able to take the heating module apart for cleaning of the boiler compartment. Don't worry about exact placement of the clips, but you can take a picture of them before removing them for reference. Two are placed at 5:00 and 7:00 on the bottom, two at 3:00 and 9:00 on the sides, and one on top just to the right of 12:00.
Usage notes:
I purified approximately 4 gallons of water yesterday (3/30/2019) in about 7.5 hours. Since I did not use a fan/cooler top I ran a steady stream of fresh water from the faucet. So basically what I was making was 'flash boiled' purified water. I didn't have another faucet aerator/diversion valve other than the new one with the other unit so I took the end off my sink spray hose and used a Velcro strap to secure it on to the water inlet and temperature control valve, turned up. Normally you would set your water inlet and temperature control valve to just replace the water that is being expelled from the distillate tube, or a little more as I did if needed for extra cooling. The water level must never fall below the drain tube fitting level to maintain the proper water level inside the boiler. The instructions must be read and explain it. I used a lot of water that went out the drain tube but I saved a lot of it for plant water, and added some to my washing machine and then did laundry later. I also filled my dish pan with the warm expelled water and noticed that when washing the dishes it was like I had a water softener. My water is extremely hard and even though I have an under sink OmiFilter for the cold water I still had a lot of calcium/impurities that collected inside the heating module.
ITEM IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE
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